Option 1: Screws
Draw a center line to insure proper alignment. Match the contour of the fuselage to the skid by using a 1/2" "tootsie roll" rotary sander to shape the skid. Starting at the nose, mark the location of the of the first hole and drill a pilot hole (1/16" if using #4 X 3/8" pan head/phillips head sheet metal screws). The nose screw usually is into the lead nose weight. Install the first screw then mark the location of the remaining screws and drill pilot holes. On the remaining holes it is usually necessary to install some sort of backing plate for the screws. Small blocks of plywood glued on the inside of the fuselage with a pliable glue is best and allows for easy removal if necessary. Glue the blocks over the pilot holes and thru-drill the pilot holes when the glue has cured. Install the remaining screws. If necessary, grind off the ends of the screws to prevent damage to the radio gear.

Option 2: Shoe Goo or PFM
Prepare the surface of the fuselage or nosecone to maximize adhesion. Draw a center line to insure proper alignment. Match the contour of the fuselage to the skid by using a 1/2" "tootsie roll" rotary sander to shape the skid. Enlarge the screw holes to 3/16". Ruff up the surface of the skid with an exacto knife making many shallow cuts and cross cuts then use the knife to scrape the surface (like removing fish scales) until the surface of the skid is "fuzzy" like velvet and no shiny areas can be seen. Apply adhesive to the skid forcing it into the 3/16" holes forming a head on the other side. Confirm the skid is straight and secure with rubber bands, tape or nylon tyraps until the glue has completely cured (several days for maximum strength).
Option 3: Hot Melt Glue
Skid and surface preparation is the same as above. Apply hot melt glue to the surface of the skid and spread as evenly as possible making sure glue is forced into the enlarged screw holes. Use a heat gun to reheat the glue until it flows easily. The glue needs to be very hot to form a good bond but take care not to melt the skid. The edges of the skid will become transparent if too much heat is applied. Be careful, hot melt glue can cause nasty burns. Quickly position in the desired location and secure until glue cools.
Option 4: External Mounting Plate (Nosecones)
Glue a plywood plate to the bottom of the nosecone and attach the skid to the plate with screws. Pre-shape the plate as much as possible before gluing. Use a pliable glue like "Shoe Goo" or "PFM". After the glue has cured, add fillet material (Bondo, micro balloons, etc.) and paint. Draw a center line to insure proper alinement and attach skid beginning with the front hole using the appropriate screws (#4 X 3/8" pan head/phillips head sheet metal screws)
Option 5: Backwards Pop Rivet (Nosecones)
Use pop rivets with the flange on the inside of the nosecone. Draw a center line to insure proper alinement. Match the contour of the fuselage to the skid by using a 1/2" "tootsie roll" rotary sander to shape the skid. Remove the nail from a 1/8" pop rivet and turn it around so the "nail head" is on the flange side of the rivet. Use a wheel collar or 2-56 nut to prevent the nail from pulling through. Starting at the front, drill a 1/8" hole and insert the rivet/nail/wheel collar assembly from the inside of the nosecone and into the skid mounting hole. Place a 1/4" OD 1/8" ID washer over the end of the rivet and into the counter bore recess. Use the rivet tool to compress the rivet. Repeat for remaining holes.

Installing the SD-5 on a Pelikan from Bob Douglas
I used mounting option 2. The only thing I would add is to consider marking the outline of the skid on the fuse and then masking off 1/16 to 1/8 outside of that line. Boil the skid just prior to mounting and dry with a paper towel, put your PFM on the skid while still warm and it spreads easily due to the warmth. You can see when you have total coverage and the PFM will squeeze out the edges just a bit. Use a rubber band on each end and between each tooth and after about fifteen minutes (as the PFM starts to "gel") remove the masking tape for a neat installation. By waiting for the PFM to start to set but before it hardens completely the tape removes easily and takes the excess PFM with it leaving a nice oversized edge of PFM around the skid. By boiling AND using rubber bands on the ends AND between EACH tooth, you get the skid down tight and flush with the bottom of the fuse/nosecone.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The user assumes full responsibility for determining the suitability and safe use of this product and acknowledges the inherent risk of flying radio controlled aircraft.

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